Zviropolis

Vaccination is one of the most important things you can do for your dog’s health. It protects them against a number of deadly infectious diseases. The injection itself, however, is only part of the story — what matters just as much is proper post-vaccination care, which ensures the vaccine works as it should and that your dog feels well afterwards.

What is post-vaccination care?

Post-vaccination care is a set of measures designed to minimise the risk of adverse reactions after a vaccination and to give the vaccine the best possible chance of working. It matters most during the first few days after the visit to the veterinary practice.

What to do after the vaccination

1. Keep an eye on your dog: owners should watch their dog closely for 24–48 hours after the vaccination. Mild reactions during this period are normal — low spirits, sleepiness, a slight temperature or a reduced appetite. A small swelling or tenderness may appear at the injection site. These signs usually settle on their own. If more serious reactions occur, however — severe vomiting, diarrhoea, swelling of the muzzle or difficulty breathing — contact your veterinarian immediately.
2. Rest: after a vaccination the dog’s body is busy producing antibodies, and it needs peace and quiet. Avoid strenuous exercise, long walks, training sessions and play with other dogs. Over-exertion puts a strain on the body and may reduce how well the vaccine works.
3. Feeding: in the first hours after the vaccination you can give your dog a smaller portion of food to avoid an upset stomach. Water should always be available.

Why avoid contact with other dogs?

This is one of the most important rules, particularly for puppies who are only at the start of their vaccination course.

• Immunity is not yet complete: a vaccine does not work instantly. The body needs anything from a few days to a couple of weeks to build full immunity. What is more, a puppy’s vaccination course consists of several doses given at intervals, and full protection only arrives after the final one. Until then, the puppy is still open to infection.
• Risk of infection: contact with other dogs, especially those whose health status is unknown, carries a serious risk of catching diseases the puppy is not yet fully protected against. Even a partly vaccinated animal can fall seriously ill.

This applies both to walks in public places and to play in dog parks. In the period after vaccination, a puppy should mix only with the household and with fully vaccinated dogs whose health status is certain.

Do not forget parasite control

Vaccination is only one element of preventive care. Before each dose, the veterinarian will check that the dog has been wormed and is protected against fleas and ticks. Remember to keep up with these treatments at home. Parasites weaken a dog’s immune system, which can significantly reduce how well a vaccine works. Inadequate parasite control is a common reason for postponing a vaccination.

Taking vaccination and post-vaccination care seriously is the best investment you can make in your dog’s health and safety.

Obesity is now the most common metabolic disorder in domestic cats. It is estimated that between 30% and 60% of cats living in our homes are carrying extra weight. A “fluffy” cat may look endearing, but veterinary medicine (in line with WSAVA and AAFP standards) is unambiguous about it: obesity is a chronic inflammatory disease that drastically lowers quality of life and shortens it.

Knowing how to spot the problem, how to take weight off safely and why “slimming by eye” can be dangerous — even fatal — is the foundation of responsible cat care.

How to tell whether your cat is obese: the BCS scale

Vets do not judge body weight by the scales alone; they rely above all on the BCS (Body Condition Score), most often in its 9-point version. It gives an objective assessment of body fat regardless of the animal’s skeletal frame.

• BCS 4–5 (ideal): the ribs are easy to feel under a thin layer of fat, the waist is clearly visible from above and the abdomen is tucked up.
• BCS 6–7 (overweight): the ribs are hard to feel, the waist is barely defined and the belly is starting to round out.
• BCS 8–9 (obesity): the ribs cannot be felt under a thick layer of fat, there is no waist, the belly clearly sags and fat deposits appear at the base of the tail and on the limbs.

A simple test at home: run your hands gently along the sides of your cat’s chest, without pressing, and try to feel the ribs. If you cannot find them, your cat needs a change of diet.

Why do cats put on weight? The positive energy balance

The basic cause of obesity is a positive energy balance: more calories go in than are used up. In cats, however, several key factors shape how this plays out:

1. Neutering and spaying: the procedure is essential, but it cuts energy requirements by 20–30%. If you do not reduce the food portion after surgery, your cat will inevitably gain weight.
2. Low physical activity: indoor cats often eat out of boredom, and their only exercise is the walk to the bowl.
3. Feeding mistakes: scraps from the table, treats handed out without counting, and the “full bowl” method (constant access to dry food).
4. Breed predisposition and age: cats aged 5–12 are most at risk. Breeds such as the British Shorthair, Persian, Ragdoll and Maine Coon are naturally less active and lay down fat more readily.

The risks: why obesity is an inflammatory state

Fat is not a passive energy store — it is an active secretory organ that produces pro-inflammatory cytokines. Obesity in a cat means the body is permanently inflamed, which leads to:

• Type II diabetes: obese cats are several times more likely to develop insulin resistance.
• Hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver): a life-threatening condition that, paradoxically, is most often triggered when an obese cat stops eating too abruptly.
• Joint degeneration and chronic pain: excess weight destroys joint cartilage, and a cat in pain moves even less, which closes the vicious circle.
• Urinary tract disease: a heavier cat uses the litter tray less often and produces more concentrated urine, which encourages stone formation.

How much should a cat eat? The arithmetic of weight loss

Effective weight loss calls for precision. Veterinarians work out a cat’s resting energy requirement (RER — Resting Energy Requirement) using the formula:

$$RER = 70 times (text{body weight in kg})^{0,75}$$

An example: a 5 kg cat has an RER of roughly 234 kcal. During a weight-loss programme the vet sets the diet at about 60–80% of that figure — say 180–190 kcal a day. Remember: weighing the food on kitchen scales, to the gram, is the only method that genuinely works. Measuring cups can be up to 20% out.

The golden rules of safe weight reduction

The most important rule is a safe pace. A cat must not lose weight rapidly, because that risks the hepatic lipidosis described above.

• Pace: safe weight loss is 0.5% to 2% of current body weight per week.
• Diet: wet foods high in protein and low in carbohydrates are preferred. Wet food is less energy dense, so the cat can fill up on a larger portion.
• Frequency: split the daily ration into 4–5 smaller meals. This keeps glucose levels steady and cuts down on begging.

Active feeding and hunting stimulation

A calorie deficit is only half the battle. To get the metabolism going you also need movement — but movement that suits a cat’s nature.

1. Puzzle feeders: instead of serving food in an ordinary bowl, use toys the cat has to work at to get the kibble or meat out. This stretches out mealtimes and gives the mind something to do.
2. The “hunting” strategy: hide small portions of food around the house so your cat has to move and climb to find them.
3. A daily play session: at least 10–15 minutes of vigorous play with a wand or feather toy, finished off with a meal (this completes the hunting cycle).

Prevention: better than cure

If your cat is at a healthy weight, do everything you can to keep it there. Slimming down an obese cat takes months, whereas prevention needs nothing more than discipline:

• Regular weighing: put your cat on the scales once a month. A gain of 200–300 g in a cat is the equivalent of several kilograms in a person.
• Treats under control: every extra morsel has to be counted into the daily total and must not exceed 10% of daily calories.
• Monitoring after neutering: cut the calorie content of the diet by 20% straight after the procedure, rather than waiting for the first signs of weight gain.

Remember that any weight-loss diet should be discussed with a veterinarian or a veterinary nutritionist, so that your cat does not run short of key nutrients such as taurine or the B vitamins.

Based on WSAVA, AAFP and ESVCN guidelines.

Neutering, although a routine and widely recommended procedure, still raises many questions among cat owners. What exactly does the operation involve, why does it matter so much and when is the best time to have it done? The article below explains the key aspects of neutering, to help you make an informed decision in the interests of your pet’s health and wellbeing.

What is neutering and why is it worth doing?

Neutering is a surgical procedure that involves removing the testicles. This eliminates the source of testosterone, the hormone behind much of the behaviour typical of un-neutered tomcats.

The main reasons why veterinarians strongly recommend neutering are:

• An end to territorial marking: un-neutered tomcats have a strong territorial instinct and mark their patch with urine, both indoors and outside. That urine has a very pungent, unpleasant smell that is hard to get rid of. Neutering reliably puts a stop to this behaviour.
• Less aggression: high testosterone levels can lead to aggression towards other tomcats. Neutered cats are usually calmer and gentler, and get into fights less often.
• Fewer escapes: in search of a mate, an un-neutered tom may run away from home, which exposes him to many dangers such as road accidents, attacks by other animals or infectious diseases. Neutering reduces this drive and makes a cat much more of a homebody.
• Protecting health: although rare, testicular tumours and prostate problems can occur in tomcats. Neutering removes that risk entirely.

What happens before the operation?

Before a planned neutering, an initial consultation with a veterinarian is essential. Such a visit allows the animal’s general health and readiness for surgery to be assessed. To minimise the risks associated with anaesthesia, the veterinarian will usually recommend blood tests, including a full blood count and biochemistry. These can reveal any inflammation, anaemia or problems with kidney and liver function. In some cases, particularly in older cats or where heart disease is suspected, an echocardiogram (heart ultrasound) may also be needed. Only after a careful review of the results, and once satisfied that the cat is in optimal condition, does the veterinarian make the final decision to go ahead. This thorough diagnostic process gives your pet maximum safety during the operation.

When is it done and what does it involve?

Veterinarians most often recommend neutering before a tomcat reaches sexual maturity, that is at around 5 to 6 months of age. At that age the animal is developed enough to undergo the procedure safely, while unwanted behaviours have not yet had time to develop and become fixed.

The operation itself is simple and quick. It usually takes no more than 15 minutes and is carried out under general anaesthesia. The veterinarian makes small incisions in the scrotum, removes the testicles and in most cases does not place any sutures.

Recovery afterwards is usually very short. The cat may be drowsy for the rest of the day because of the anaesthetic, but normally returns to his usual self the next day. The owner should make sure the cat does not lick the surgical wound, though this is not usually much of a problem.

Aftercare and myth-busting

After neutering, a tomcat’s metabolism may slow down, which can lead to weight gain. The key to keeping him in good shape is adjusting his diet. Special foods for neutered cats, with a lower calorie content, are widely available. Regular play and physical activity will also help keep a cat in good form.

Neutering will not change your cat’s personality; it simply removes the troublesome behaviours driven by the reproductive instinct. Your tom will still be just as friendly, playful and gentle. Neutering is a safe and responsible step that gives him a better future and helps him avoid a great many problems.

Myths and facts about neutering a tomcat

A good many myths have grown up around neutering, and they often put owners off making this important decision. It is worth dispelling them so that you can approach the subject with clear eyes:

• Myth: “Neutering is cruel and robs a cat of his ‘masculinity’.”
  • Fact: the reproductive instinct is not a source of pleasure for cats but a biological compulsion, one that often ends in frustration, fights and escapes. Neutering removes that compulsion, leaving a tomcat calmer and more content.
• Myth: “After neutering a cat becomes lazy and fat.”
  • Fact: neutering does slow the metabolism, but obesity is the result of an unsuitable diet and too little exercise. By feeding a special food for neutered cats and encouraging your pet to play regularly, you can keep his weight normal without any trouble.
• Myth: “Neutering is unnecessary if the cat never goes outside.”
  • Fact: even indoor cats can mark their territory, and hormonal frustration can spill over into aggression. Remember that hormones still drive an animal’s behaviour even when it never meets another cat.